The worktops are designed to have a 30mm overhang at the front, whether wooden or stone. With wooden worktops, we recommend that you fix at the front by screwing up through the top rail. This secures the 30mm overhang. At the back of the cupboard you will see we have provided slotted holes in the top of the cupboard. This is to enable you to fix the back through these holes and into the worktop with a screw and washer. The reason for these holes being slotted is to allow the worktop to move at the back (as all wood will move) but the worktop be held firm with a 30mm overhang at the front.

The worktops will of course need to be scribed at the back, and again your school compass comes into use here. Roughly push the worktop back to the wall and then slide the worktop to be perfectly parallel with the fronts of the cupboards. Measure this temporary overhang and deduct 30mm. This dimension is now your scribe dimension and you can follow the wall along marking the top of the worktop with your pencil. You don’t have to be too accurate here as the upstands (if you are using them) will finally cover this gap. A bead of silicon along the back joint is advisable, particularly behind the sink and hob as it stops spillages going down the back of the cupboards.

When jointing a worktop in a return corner situation, you will need to dowel the joint (or biscuit joint if you have the tool) to keep the two pieces level. The underside of the worktop either side of the joint should be routered out with a worktop connector (available from DIY stores) and the whole thing should be clamped and glued together. Before your final coat of Danish, Osmo or Teak oil, this joint should be sanded down, preferably with an orbital sander. You will have to pay some attention to this area and several coats of oil will be required over the area that has been sanded before final coating all the worktops.

The worktops do not arrive with a finished front edge (a small radius or arris), which we expect you to apply. Our recommendation is a tiny arris of approximately 2mm which can be easily done with sandpaper. Cut outs for sinks, if undermounted, are best carried out with a router, following a template that you have made first.

When the worktops are finally installed we suggest that a minimum of three thin coats of Danish or Osmo oil (Teak oil in the case of Iroko) should be applied to the wood with a non-fluffy cotton cloth. It is important that the coats are sparingly applied. Do not try to shortcut this as it will leave the tops sticky and you will need to remove the excess with methylated spirits and start again!